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PHOTOFLOW RINSE AFTER ILFORD RAPIDFIX FULL
With the jobo I would only be using 250-300ml per run, as 250ml covers the full 6 sheets when doing E6. But then that means even more choice.Aaaarrrrrggghhh! Hmmm, maybe if you can mix and entire powder pack up at once then its worth considering, it was mainly the thought of messing around mixing powders every time that was offputting. You may use a few sheets to get the optimum ISO, time and temperature for the film and process - but once you've got it you'll have a whole new medium to bring you a whole new set of frustrations! Most important is to try it - if you're already on E6, you should find B+W more tolerant - although good time and temp' control is always advisable. You could use a collapsible bottle and squeeze the liquid to the top then a good seal on a screw top, or use an inert gas to take up the space above the dev if the bottle isn't collapsible, or - as my pal does - put glass marbles in the bottle until the liquid reaches the top. You only need to dilute it as you use it - with a Jobo processor I'm assuming that's a relatively small amount - so a litre should get you through a reasonable number of sheets.įor storage it's important to keep air (in particular, oxygen) out of contact with the dev stock solution. You store the dev as a "stock solution" ie the one litre mix from the powder pack (assuming you're using an Ilford dev such ID-11 or Perceptol etc). I'd go with Paul on the use of diluted dev - then you can standardise on development time rather than calculate additional times for developer exhaustion etc. I should have added to the original post, I'm using the 2509N reel if that makes any odds to the developer. But I've been using mine now with the vacuum lids for about 18months, and apart from a bit of sediment floating in the blix they're all still good. My current set of E6 chems for example according to the instructions only have a few months life once opened.
PHOTOFLOW RINSE AFTER ILFORD RAPIDFIX FREE
I'm finding those vacuum wine bottle stoppers pretty good though currently, and very hassle free once everything is decanted into beer/wine bottles initials. The tip about the gas is another good one. Rinse-aid not withstanding, I presume its OK to use the same tank/reel for E6 and mono chems assuming they're given a decent clean/rinse after use. As you rightly say, I really don't want that stuff on the reel. I was planning on treating any fotoflo/rinse aid as I already do the final stabiliser step in E6 (which is a combination of rinse-aid and formaldehyde) - that is to do it all off-tank in an old tupperware box. should I have put this in the Monochrome Film sub-forum? Could a moderator move it if so - sorry guys) I suppose I'll also need some fotoflo for the final rinse, and maybe a stop bath (or just use water)? Anything else I need to know? Also the cost isn't too much of a worry, as its all cheap compared to E6! Reasonable shelf life once opened - although I'll probably decant into beer bottles with vacuum pump lids this isn't a major concernĪs I do E6 I'm not worried about maintaining a specified temperature or sticking to timings, thats no problem. Would allow some zone system type expansion/contraction work (N+, N- etc) Suitable for both FP4+ and Delta 100 (high acutance?)
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Nothing badly toxic - it is a family bathroom Ideally not going to stain the bath if spilt!
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No nasty fumes (only got a standard crappy bathroom extractor fan and openable window) Suitable for constant agitiation in the Jobo drum (I don't know if this makes any odds.) So I'm looking for a developer and fixer combo that is: Not having a darkroom I do all my E6 with the lights on in the bathroom, so ideally I want to find a B&W method that suits this kind of transient setup. Now I'm an E6 man and haven't really ever developed my own B&W (bar one roll at uni), but I do have and use a Jobo CPE2 for home E6, so I might as well use it for mono too. I have just come by a couple of boxes of FP4+ and Delta 100 (thanks Eddie!) in 4x5 which I feel I aught to try and shoot. Sorry if any of this is really basic stuff.
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